My Tripura Visit: Udaipur,Tripura Sundari & Bhubaneswari Temple

On 27^th  we visited Kasba , saw the border  and took a glimpse of Comilla soil.  Our next program was fixed to Udaipur by Ratan Da.  We were told to sleep early and get up in the very morning. Udaipur is about 55 kms. from Khayerpur where we are staying.  However, we did not  sleep early but  got up at the dawn.  The old lady- ninety five year old ,Ratan Da's mother & watchful guardian  blessed us morning. She also repeatedly told  “ Go to Mata Bari in the morning otherwise you can not see the deity at ease..Every time there is crowd.. Take her blessings”—With her kind wishes we started.. The same team comprising Ratan da, Sweta & their daughter ,me along with Krishna & Sanchari  plus the eldest sister of Sweta.

On our way  I looked at the Hoara Nadi..a lean stream.. we crossed.. the top of the Chaturdas Dev temple was visible from the windows of the car.. everybody folded hands and saluted the tutelary devis of Tripura king.   As we move forward we were looking at the hillocks..locally called tillas.. the road was carved with green plantations ,,obviously natural.   Morning journey through the Assam road is indeed charming.  We saw vally lands in between tillas. Farmers were busy in growing crops. There were lush green patches  all through.  Side by side  man’s overpowering nature was seen. Tills were  being cut to flat lands by giant macine.. old trees are cut down  here and there.. space for urbanization  is the top activity in Agratala and surroundings.

While moving,  Ratan Da  drew my attraction to the splendid building. It was Tripura University. I got down and took a few shots.  Near to the University I saw a Palash tree –it was full bloomed.. its colour reminded me Paschimanchal.  The color of soil was keen to lalmati (red soil).

On the way we were looking at the tea-gardens. Vast areas are carpeted with tea. It was the off season  and tea-plants were uniformly pruned.  Tea  played a big role in the economy of Tripura. British  factories sprang in Tripura owing to much availability of rolling lands and cheap labours. However, Ratan Da mentioned “ lot of your people originating from Chotonagpur were  hired   for tea plantation.. they are settled now.  In those days  (1860s).. Kukmis of tribal hills frequently invaded tea gardens and invaded tea colonies..However, later it was settled with the intervention of British Government.’.  Ratan Da  is an encyclopaedia of Tripura. I was listening to his story. The rest co-passengers were enjoying nab.  I asked why did Kukmis were arrogant to the others?-I asked.

Ratan Da smiled and answered “ All about the battle of throne.  Whenever there was rivalry  within the Raj family the contender  used to disturb the sitting king.. It also happened.  Many villages near Udaipur were plundered..many huts were ablaze  ..many were made captive by the Kukis.  Kukis were hill tribals .  Tripura was divided into two parts. One is Plain Tripura. This part was governed by the Brtitish ruler and the other part is Hill Tripura. Hill Tripura was independent and was under the control of Tripura king, however he had to pay  taxes to the Government.  Commilla was the capital of Tripura which was again named as Rosaland. Udaipur was the old capital of Hill Tripura. “

The car moved and reached BishalGarh district. I enjoyed the beauty of tea gardens.  Ratan Da pointed to  the trees which I have  never seen earlier. “ These are rubber plants. Now Tripura is the second state after Kerala in terms of rubber production. Every inch of soil would be covered by rubber trees. Tea planters  also tried to switch over to rubber plantations. However, public hue & cry and Government intervention stopped it. Rubber cultivation is a profitable enterprise.  “. He also lamented that bio-diversity of Tripura is threatened by extensive rubber cultivation.  By this time we crossed a semi-town named Charilam.. a beautiful name.  Gradually ,we crossed the reserved forests..saw the natural treasure of Tripura and crossed the Gomati river. Gomati is the Ganges of Tripura. In those days it was the only means of communication.  Gomati has gone to the Bangladesh.  Finally we came to Udaipur. A serene town  obviously.  We got down at the bank of Rudrasagar. Oh..while entering Udaipur city we found numerous lakes, and temples. Bijoy Sagar,Jagannath Dihi,Amar sagar and Kalyan sagar are a few lakes  to mention. All these were  made by the then Tripura Rajas.

We reached to Tripureswari temple around 9.30.  by this time there were queues of devotees. This temple is a famous pilgrimage destination of Hindus. However, tribal of Tripura show great reverence to the deity. . Popularly  the temple is known as Matabari. . it  was constructed by Maharaja Dhanya Manikya Debbarma in 1501 Mythology  says, Sati’s  right foot fell here during Lord Shiva’s Dance. Krishna ,Sweta were well prepared in worshiping the deity. This is one of the 51 sakti piths. Tripura was known by the Tripureswari devi from time immemorial. The temple is situated in a gentle hillock.  The hill is just a replica of Tortoise and people call the holy place as  Kurma Pitha. Every year on Diwali, a famous Mela takes place near the temple which is visited by more than two lakhs pilgrims. I made a round the temple.  I saw many devotees have brought animals for sacrifice. Animal sacrifice is a common way of pleasing devi here. Ratan da told me “ Human sacrifice was in vogue  in the princely state. I will show you the spot at Bhubaneswari temple.”

Tripura kings shifted to Khayerpur (old Agartala) during 1760 and took their tutelary Goddess Chaturdash Dev there but did not move the deity  of Tripura sundari. Till date the deity is worshiped by the red-lobed priests who happened to be the descendants of Raj-purohits.

Krishna ,Sweta  and didi were satisfied after seeing the deity and offerings to the Goddess. We came down the tilla and took a bit rest at Kayan sagar beneath the temple. It is splendid  and another attraction of Udaipur.   It was also crowded. Many were feeding the fish & tortoises.  At present the number of tortoises have come down . The banks were made of briks and cements and the pretty tortoises feel it uncomfortable to stay.  We were talking about human and animal conflicts.  A mid aged tribal women intervened and said ‘  The deity is living one..a few days back a giant tortoise went up to the temple and unnoticed..finally it died better say sacrificed for our welfare”.—The strong belief  - I can not explain or she will not listen to otherwise.!!

Now our destination is  Shanti’s residence. 2 Kms. Far from the temple. Shanti arranged stupendous lunch for us. I was moved with their hospitality. After lunch and a short break we moved towards Bhubaneswari temple. The temple reminds me Rabindranath Tagore. His famous Bisarjan or Rajharshi  come to my mind as  I feel Bhubaneswari temple. The excitement went up when  I saw a beautiful building named after Rajharshi while crossed Shanti’s house.

Again we have to ride tillas and cross magnificent slopes of Udaipur to reach the temple. the Bhuvaneswari Temple Tripura is a rare specimen of temple architecture. The temple of Bhubaneswari at Tripura was built by Maharaja Govinda Manikya, is located near the old Royal palace of Maharaja Govinda Manikya constructed during 1660-1675 A.D. The palace is is ina dilapidated condition.  Recently archaeological department unearthed many aretefacts, historical documents etc.  Again we saw the Gomati river.  A statue of Rabindranath here  witnesses the great poet, his love for Tripura and Tripura people. I saw the dreaded spot where human sacrifice used to be done to appease the Goddess.

It was evening , we  started for Khayerpur with memory and joy.